Please note: if you have the 115V AC power outlet option and want to have full time power there as well,
go directly to the full time 115v power mod as it will simultaneously perform both the 115v and 12v power outlet mods.
The 2007 Toyota 4Runner comes standard with one front and one cargo area 12V auxiliary power points.
Compare this to the 1999 4Runner which came standard with one front mounted 12V cigarette lighter,
two front and one cargo area auxiliary power points.
Both the auxiliary power points on the 4th gen 4Runner have power only when the ignition key is either in the
accessory or the on position. For various reasons a person may want to have power available at these points
when the vehicle is off. This modification accomplishes that.
The power outlet relay (DC socket relay) is mounted in the driver side junction box located in the lower finish panel.
In the 3rd Gen it's mounted in the engine room relay box and literally is a 5 minute mod, for the 4th Gen allow a little more time.
Start out by disassembling the lower dash area as we need access to the driver side interior relay/junction box.
To access this, first remove the two 10mm bolts holding the lower finish panel on.
Pull the panel straight out as there are still 4 plastic clips holding it on. The trim ring around the key hole will just
pop out on it's own as you are doing this. Remove the wire harnesses attached to each of the switches located on the
back side of this panel. Also on the back right side of this lower finish panel is the room temperature sensor harness
(cooler thermistor), detach this from the panel as well. The panel can be lowered to the floor now.
Remove lower finish panel
Pull to release 4 tabs
Remove two 10mm bolts holding the metal bracket around the bottom of the steering column. Disconnect the white wire
harness just to the right of the steering column, it has no slack and prevents the junction box from being lowered.
Remove bracket
Unclip connectors to provide slack
Remove three 10mm nuts/bolts holding the junction box in place.
Pull on the top of the kick panel (cowl side trim board) a little as you need to remove one more 10mm bolt
holding a bracket that is in the way of lowering the juction box to access it's back side where the relays are mounted.
When this last bolt is removed, pull the junction box down enough to access the relays which are mounted on the on the
rear side of the relay/junction/fuse box.
Unbolt junction box
Unbolt bracket
Make a jumper wire by taking a 3 inch piece of 14 gauge wire and crimping on a .250" spade solderless terminal to each end.
Jumper wire which will replace the DC SKT Relay
Remove the DC SKT Relay by pulling it straight out firmly.
Remove DC SKT Relay
Insert one of the spade ends of the jumper we just made into the power outlet relay socket #3 and the other end
to socket #5. Sockets #3 and #5 are the only places a standard .250" spade soderless terminal will fit,
so you won't have any trouble identifying where to insert the jumper wire. You will now have 12v power full time
to both the front and cargo area 12-volt auxiliary power points.
Jumper in place of DC SKT Relay
Put everything back together. Now with the key off test that the power points have 12V power.
